Gigicalebcamino2

PREFACE

For many of you, this is a continuation of what started last year as an indulgence on my part to realize a commitment to myself I made many years ago – to Walk the Camino Santiago. For some of you, this is an introduction to what happens on The Camino. Thanks for coming along for the walk. Others were with us last year and can expect more of the same but with coastal pictures to start.

As it happens, my grandson, Caleb, got caught up in this through no fault of his own.

And so the madness began. Having done the longest and most difficult of the four official Camino walks last year, we will endeavor a second trip this summer, beginning in Porto, Portugal. There are two options for the walk beginning in Porto (one coastal and one inland). We are taking the coastal route and it should be about 190 miles. Add a few more to that, as we tend to get lost.

Our travels begin June 26, arrival in Porto on the 27th and start walking on the 28th. We arrive in Santiago de Compostela on July 10. We leave for Rome on the 11th and return to Raleigh on July 15.

Just like last year, I used a tour company to reserve hotels each night and several meals, and transporting our one piece of luggage to the next hotel each day. This enables us to walk all day with just our small backpacks. Genius 😉

I’ll post each evening sometime between 9 pm and 1 am local time. I will number the days in case you don’t check each day.

I recently asked Caleb if he was ready for the trip. His response – “I’m totally unprepared, just like last year.”

This should be fun 🥴

I, on the other hand, have been walking quite a lot in preparation. Caleb is 15; I am not.

June 23rd

I’ve started packing. Keep in mind we are traveling with a carry-on bag only plus a small backpack. I need to check which hotels have laundry facilities. We’ll need it.

Recent photos of the travelers –

Braces off, spring 2024
Christmas 2023

I got a blow torch. So happy.

June 24

We leave in two days. I am fully packed and have 4 lbs. available in my suitcase, leaving just enough space for anything we have forgotten.

June 25

We leave tomorrow. One last stop at CVS and I’m ready.

June 26. Day 1 of Camino2

At the airport in Raleigh waiting to board our first flight. We’re both pretty relaxed and seem to have settled into a familiar travel mode. Meaning, we’re both on our phones. We’ve got a few hours in Newark before the second flight into Porto so dinner at an expensive airport restaurant is on the agenda. Then, hopefully some sleep on that second leg.

I know some of you were surprised that we would travel the Camino again. It’s a draw difficult to explain, but here we are.

RDU. On our way

There are 4 official Camino walks, so don’t be surprised if you see us again next year. If my health holds out, we’ll do all of them. There, I’ve said it. Now let’s see if it happens.

A rocky start. Flight delay out of Newark due to weather. Best to be safe rather than sorry, but wondering if we’ll ever take off. It’s been an hour and a half so far 😦

Two hour delay-and we’re off. Landed 8:45 am instead of 6:55 am. No big deal but plane was hot while we waited as they were conserving gas so a/c was off.


June 27, day 2 of Camino2

We (I) decided we’d take the metro from airport to our hotel as the hotel website says the metro is 650 meters from station. Not true. It’s about a 20 minute walk with roller luggage on cobblestone streets. Lesson learned.

No surprise upon our 10 am arrival, rooms not ready for check in. Undaunted, we changed into shorts and set off for the tourism office near cathedral to get our official Camino maps. Got a generic map, but not what we expected so we went to the cathedral where we were told they would have the official maps with all the details we got last year. They did not. We’ll make it work.


Sao Bento railway station

Our rooms are spacious. Caleb thinks the tub in the room is special. Me – not so much.

The cathedral

To compare the approach to Santiago to last year – this year coming from a different direction was anti climactic. The approach from the French hike is far more beautiful because you are approaching through woods and the Portuguese hike is through town.

Caleb is suffering from allergies. A visit to local pharmacy required. Lunch at McDonald’s and back to hotel to check in and nap. Dinner is out on our own tonight so we will find somewhere nearby.

We had a lovely start through a park and were pleased to catch up to our Boston friends. However catching up and chatting, or due to poor signage, we managed to stay off the Camino route for a bit and continue along the water. While we enjoyed the level roads, we eventually paid the price and rejoined the Camino route by climbing up into the hills. Yes, thighs were screaming.

We stayed too long in bar only to witness a nil nil decision. Portugal must be disappointed and Slovenia elated at a result where the world’s number one, Ronaldo, didn’t score.

Looking across to Spain, then a quick boat ride.

Left Vila de Ancora at 9:20. Arrived A Guarda 1:15 pm. 8.5 miles. Map said 9.3 miles in in but we crossed the water over to Spain by boat so that doesn’t count as walking! We are now in Spain and have changed time zones, so 6 hours ahead of EST now. Crazy times – we must be in for some mileage ahead because today was easy. We left the Camino path without realizing but got a boat nonetheless. 6 euros each to cross and well worth it.

Discovered a combo hardware store/dollar store across from the hotel. Scored a phone charger for Caleb, toothpicks and some shoe inserts. It’s the little things that count. I went back for inserts for myself after Caleb gave the thumbs up on his.

When we’re in a big city, fast food just seems appealing because you’re not sure when you’ll get it again. Hence, pizza for dinner. It was an Indian restaurant, but the pizza was delicious.

We have another short day tomorrow so Caleb is getting a swim in. Nope, pool closed.

Tomorrow could be a long day. However, best to get the big mileage over with. Will be having an early night since we got very little sleep due to travel time.

Oh, in case you were wondering, Caleb is great company, but still a teenager. I can’t recount how many items on his packing list didn’t make it to the suitcase. We are adaptable. My middle name is McGyver.

Oh, it’s not one-sided. The removable lock I brought for my suitcase is too big. It was fine last year with a different suitcase. Crisis averted – found a tiny lock at the local hardware store on the way to dinner. I showed a picture of what I was looking for, and the owner found just the thing. Smiles all around!

Good night.


June 28, day 3 of Camino 2

Left Porto at 9am; arrived Povoa de Varzim 8:05 pm . 24.9 miles – adjusted per Caleb. 28.7 miles.

Today could have gone better. It should have been 20.5 miles, which is bad enough but we missed a turn early on, adding about a mile and then two detours on the Camino due to maintenance on the boardwalk really did us in. First time we were following a couple who knew what to do so no problem. The second one we were totally lost with no signage but managed to use a bit of good sense (and using farm roads that we felt were in the right direction) and rejoined the boardwalk right where the maintenance was clear. We lucked out.

Porto is quite large, and we walked 4.5 miles through the city before reaching the coast. Once on the boardwalk we were pleased that the temperature was mid 60s most of the day so quite comfortable.

The beach was quite stunning, plenty of waves and surfers. Lots of cabanas and people on the beach.

There was a fishing village or two. Very fragrant!

We detoured through cornfields which was unexpected

Passed behind vegetable gardens and some interesting characters on the beach. This was part of a residence. They have a sense of whimsy I’d say.

Once we were within 5 miles of our hotel we left Camino and took the most direct route to the hotel. Our feet were too tired and it was getting late. Tomorrow is another day and expect the miles to be about half of today. Fingers crossed.

Leaving you with a peaceful video of the beach from earlier today. Good night.


June 29, day 4 of Camino2

It’s 3:30 in the morning. There has been celebrating in the street all night – music, chanting and fireworks nonstop. Our much needed rest has been fitful. I will find out later what the partying is about. I sure don’t feel like celebrating and am in serious need of sleep.

It was a dance/music festival, I think. There were also lots of people wearing green and white so it may have had some soccer significance. Forgot to ask!

Left Póvoa de Varzim at 10:15 am. Arrived Esposende 4:55 pm. 13.2 miles.

Note: Caleb took issue with my mileage yesterday. Since my watch died and we struggled to charge my phone – he used the number of steps we took, which did record. That calculation changed our miles to 28.7. I amended yesterday’s post to reflect his contribution. Either number is more than enough.

What we hadn’t realized today was that there would be no restaurants or markets for several miles after leaving the coast. Luckily, we had snack bars given to me by a nice neighbor! Eventually found in a place about 2:30 and had a big lunch. Dinner in hotel tonight was lovely. I had local fish – delicious. Caleb had lasagna.

We walked through the forest, some small towns, saw soccer pitches and a lovely golf course. Eventually headed back to the coast, and were greeted by the sight of many paddle boarders with sails.

Our hotel today has a pool. Caleb went for a short swim. It was too cold for me.

Had an interesting conversation with a man on the road today. Him speaking Portuguese and me Spanish. We eventually worked it out. the words are so similar; it’s the pronunciation that throws me.

Still so amazed at how clean the streets are. Love this.

Good night.


June 30, day 5 of Camino2

Left Esposende at 8:40 am. Arrived Viana de Castelo 4:15 pm. 15.5 miles

We walked along the beach for a few miles then headed inland for the rest of the way. Love the beach, but so much more interesting walking through the woods and little villages.

I really need to ask somebody what the deal is with the street decorations. Perhaps I’ll remember tonight🥴

We took our time today as we knew it was a relatively short day. As it happens, we had many hills to climb so it was slow going and quite challenging.

As you can see, Caleb is rocking the buzz cut again this year. Makes it easier on the go. It’s not a look for me though. Thank goodness I packed a hair dryer.

We met some cute sheep happily eating in the yard. Passed a lovely vineyard. And lots more interesting flowers than on the beach. Makes me happy.

The following video might make you dizzy, but you can see how untamed some of the walk is. Got to keep your eyes down to select the right path.

Watch your step

I had to stop taping for fear of falling. We had a couple miles of this and then climbing uphill after. Makes me wonder why we thought this would be fun. When you’re not afraid of collapse, it is really quite an adventure.

It’s Sunday, so mass set up outdoors in one town and then one ongoing. Make sure you have sound up on the two videos no to hear the sweet child singing.

We could hear this while walking

Here’s a few of Caleb’s photos that are worth a view

And this is how we ended the night. So satisfying.

Our rooms are small and a little 60s vibe. All in all, pretty pleasant though.

Good thing we had plastic cups in our room. Gigi is a bad influence. (Reference last photo)

Another spectacular dinner. I am not one to take pictures of food generally, but tonight would have made you jealous. Just know it was photo-worthy.

Good night.


July 1, day 6 of Camino2

Left Viana do Castelo at 8:50 am. Arrived Vila de Ancora 1:55 pm

Here’s what I know – cobblestone streets are incredibly quaint and charming. However, if you’re walking on them for several hours, they lose their charm a lot sooner than you’d think. Our shoes absorb a lot of the abuse, but not enough.

While the mileage was minimal by our Camino standards, it was tough going. Lots of climbing and rocky terrain made it slow and pretty painful. In addition, there’s the ever present possibility of spraining an ankle or falling; it just wears you out.

We didn’t stop for lunch as there was not much from which to choose. We elected to eat after checking into the hotel and a shower. Lunch was close to 3 pm.

We saw a fair number of peregrinos today, as with most other days so far, but we have not chosen to walk together. It’s not unusual to nod and acknowledge and perhaps a “buen Camino” is exchanged but we all appear to be in our own little zone. As pilgrims (peregrinos) we feel part of a community of sorts, yet happy to keep to ourselves.

Attention to detail. Love the little wild flowers on our breakfast table.

Here’s a bit of the trail.

Obsession of the day – doors

I forgot to mention that early this morning we passed a woman weeding her little patch of garden. She was ruthless and definitely enjoying herself. Made me miss my yard work. It seems that gardeners around the world are a hearty bunch – and I include myself in that bunch now gladly.

Local cows and kitty

Our hotel is the upgraded spa hotel. I just can’t work up the energy for a massage or the steam room, so Caleb and I decided to head to the bar for a snack dinner and watch the Portugal v Slovenia game.

This hotel offers laundry service (at an exorbitant price). We need clean clothes and don’t feel like looking for a laundromat; so pricey it is. Timing!! — Just delivered. I need this in my life 🙂

Best guess as to what these are. Random stuff in someone’s yard. It breaks up the scenery, but you have to wonder what they were thinking. (See ocean in the distance)

Every now and then we pass places like this and I wonder if there’s a club they all belong to – because why would you come up with this on your own? It’s so random and yet so deliberate. I shouldn’t be critical, but this is just plain nutty. Apologies to anyone of you who have a yard like this🥴. Feel free to send photos.

There’s a photo I had intended to put here. Scroll down to find it.

Someone has some mad gardening skills…church in the square in all its floral glory.

Tomorrow we get to Spain, and I think we change time zones as well.


Crazy yard I wanted to share above. I’m still figuring out how to edit.

Good night


July 2, day 7 of Camino2

Left Vila de Ancora 9:20 am, arrived A Guarda at 1:15 pm (add an hour due to zone). We only walked 3 hours. 8.5 miles.

Laundry price yesterday – 44 euros! Could have found a laundromat but, oh well.

Dinner last night was a snack and then a drink in the bar to watch Portugal v Slovenia. it was a draw but Portugal advanced so lots of honking in the street last night. Fortunately, not for too long.

We walked along the beach for the first few miles. Below Caleb exploring some tide pools.

Passed some lucky horses and goats feeding on the seashore. The horses were tethered so they couldn’t wander. The goats apparently are not so much of a worry? They were free to roam.

Upon arrival in A Guarda, we put in address for our hotel which took us off the Camino path but a more direct route to the hotel. When we saw where the Camino path joined us on the main road we were glad we did what we did because the other path went through a rocky forest. I’m sure it was lovely, and probably a shorter route but an uphill level path sometimes is a better choice.

The app we are using is called Buen Camino and it enables us to see where we are and how to stay on the Camino route. When we get close to where we think the hotel is, we use google maps to get us there. That seems to be working well for us so far.

First blister appeared today, not too horrible though. I think Caleb is still blister-free.

Caleb opted to skip lunch in favor of napping. He also had leftover pizza from yesterday so he won’t starve. I showered and wandered down to the water. Having said I don’t often take pictures of food –

This in honor of my mom

Belatedly inserting a bit of the boat ride

I can’t quite get a handle on editing. Frustrating, but you get the idea😎 . It was a short and pleasant boat ride.

Dinner was in an Irish pub – The Celtic Restaurant. Food surprisingly tasty. We’re having an early night since we lost an hour. It’s after 10 and still light out.

Met two lovely ladies from the Boston area and we seem to be on the same travel schedule. They are very lively and willing to chat. One of the women’s husband is from NC and knows Raleigh well. So she knew quite a lot about where we live and was checking with friends who may have children attending St. David high school. (where Caleb goes). Small world indeed.

Back to lunch for a minute. I am always surprised at how enjoyable it is to have a great meal alone. No conversation, no rush, just relaxing. Please understand that I am over the moon to have my grandson as a companion. He couldn’t be more agreeable, good company, but there’s a certain luxury in selfishly spending time with just yourself once in a while. He probably felt the same having an afternoon of napping.

Good night.


July 3, day 8 of Camino2

Left A Guarda at 9:25, arrived Oia 1:15 pm. 9.2 miles. Our luggage had yet to arrive, but two hours later, success.

The coastal route does keep you along the water a fair amount of the time; however, when there’s only rocks and no path along the ocean, we get switched to paths parallel to the ocean. Sometimes water is in view, sometime we simply hear the faint sound of the crashing waves. Either has a mesmerizing effect. This couldn’t be more glorious.

As we continue inland slightly, the flowers continue to catch my eye. I cannot help it. You wouldn’t know it, but I am actually quite restrained. If I took all the pictures I want, we’d never get to our next hotel.

In This is our last day of single digit walks. I’ve looked ahead and there will be no more napping for Caleb after breakfast. We’ll need to keep moving in order to reach our next stop before dinner.

We stopped for an early lunch and I had my first tortilla of the trip. This is a standard meal in Spain…more like a torta – egg and potato, very filling. I’ve inserted an image from Internet, as I, of course, failed to snap a pic of my own.

Caleb continues his diet of enormous burgers. The Spanish burger typically comes with fried egg, mushrooms, bacon, tomato and lettuce plus fries. It’s a meal for sure. End result, neither of us was very hungry at dinner.

Entering Oia, we’re now back on the water. I can see the ocean from my room, looking past someone’s backyard!

I took the last photo as sun is setting, and it’s already after 10 pm.

Reflection for the day from Caleb – this seems to be going slowly because we haven’t really challenged ourselves physically the last two days.

He may regret saying that. Tomorrow is another day. Who knows what trails await.


July 4, day 9 of Camino 2

Left Oia at 9 am. Arrived Baiona at 2:30 pm. 11.8 miles.

I know it doesn’t seem like a long way, but there were lots of elevation changes and rocky paths so we really took our time. Plus, it was a day of eating and drinking. Sometimes you just need to slow down and enjoy the scenery. This was one of those days. Plus it was hot☀️☀️

Our first snack was only because they advertised it was the last place for food before Baiona

We believed them.

As it happens, there was one other tiny place about 4 miles later and we stopped for a beer.

We saw plenty of pilgrims today. A couple of Germans saved us from missing a turn. Too busy talking to notice the arrow. If we had kept going, we would have rejoined the Camino, but glad we were set straight. It seems so simple, but the pilgrims do watch out for one another. We have also helped others take the right path from time to time. It’s so easy to miss a sign.

Yesterday was my long time friend, Sheryl’s birthday. Also my mother in law (since passed). Stopped to say a quick prayer and lit a candle for them.

Baiona is a touristy beach town. Quite lively and full of restaurants and shops. We had a late lunch and a late dinner as is the norm for Spain.

Now back to my room at 10:30 and I can hear plenty of people out and about enjoying the nice weather. They, of course, don’t have to walk 16 miles tomorrow.

Good night.


July 5, day 10 of Camino2

Left Baiona at 8:30 am, arrived 6:30 pm at Vigo . 18.6 miles

We got on the Camino by 9:30 am. Our Boston friends encouraged us to go to the Parador (fort) and we also had a look at the Pinto – a replica of the original. It added an hour to our start, but the view from the fort was fantastic.

The original Pinta came back to Baiona after Columbus’s famous voyage, which is why the replica is here.

Once we got back on the Camino we started off with the attitude that we’d take our time regardless of the distance. We ambled along as carefree as could be. We stopped to enjoy streams, watch children play football, take lots of pictures, plenty of breaks for beverages. We were light hearted.

We heard the children playing soccer long before we saw them

Plenty of flowers. We were having a great day.

And then disaster struck. Somebody is painting yellow arrows to send you in the wrong direction. Fortunately, Caleb figured this out before we were led too far astray. We then became more reliant on the app for directions as opposed to arrows.

Despite misdirection, we arrived in Vigo ready to have a great meal. We got swayed by nachos and quesadillas at a place next door to the hotel. It was not what I’d planned, and perhaps that is why we enjoyed it so much.

I have to give in to the unexpected.

Not many photos now as Caleb is using my phone for directions to the hotel. I had to make him take one photo and that’s as far as he got. We were now pretty tired and just needed to get to the hotel for a much needed shower.

Tomorrow is a short day, we hope.

Good night.


July 6, day 11 of Camino2

Left Vigo at 10:40 am, arrived Redondela at 4:15 pm 9.9 miles.

Started out with a lovely walk in the park.

We enjoyed the park so much. So many well behaved dogs off leash. We noticed that not one dog on this trip has barked at us, other than those behind fenced yards.

We were lucky to meet up with our Boston friends early on today. We walked with them to Redondela where we stopped , and they went on for a few more miles.

Whether it was us just chatting away or poor signage, we managed to drift off course but stay along the water.

Eventually we had to pay the price to rejoin the actual route by climbing up and up, only to go down down down into Redondela.

However, while we were up in the hills we were rewarded with incredible views down below and the fragrance of gardenias and eucalyptus. Heavenly.

I’m starting to wonder where we are. We hear music and are treated to stunning views that makes me think of St. Thomas.

Nearly at Redondela

Yes, Caleb living in his sweatshirt. He’s happy so I try not to say much 🥴

Found out today that all the celebrating a few days ago (singing, music, fireworks) was feast of St. Peter. Apparently, a big deal here.

Good night from the peregrinos.


July 7, day 12 of Camino2

Left Redondela at 9 am. Arrived Pontevedra at 2:55 pm. 12.4 miles.

Today was more of the uphill downhill walking that we’ve become accustomed to during this trip. It is also the beginning of walking inland toward Santiago. We get glimpses of the water from the hills but that’s it.

There are these odd little buildings we keep seeing and learned today what I think they are. They are an outside pantry where people keep their produce. There are round bubbles on the legs to keep the rats from getting in there. Don’t know what they are actually called, but really cool. Also, if you have one on your property, you’re not allowed to tear it down. Apparently, holds historical significance.

We had the best lunch. Stopped at a food truck in the woods. Out of empanadas but he had sandwiches that he grilled. Iberico ham and cheese or chorizo and cheese. The cheese is melty and delicious, famous in Galicia. He told me the name but I didn’t quite catch it.

Caleb had two. They were that good. Also fresh chilled cherries for dessert.

The gentleman was very accommodating; I complimented him on the sandwiches and he proudly told me he had very little on the menu but what he had is the best he can make. I couldn’t agree more. Keep it simple, but be excellent.

Once we got into a more populated village we were treated to some lovely displays of flowers . Regardless of how small a space they have, it is filled with gorgeous plants. So satisfying!

And lots of vineyards too.

We were upgraded to a 4 star hotel tonight. It’s in town and quite lovely. View from my 5th floor room shown below.

Almost forgot – Early on in the woods we passed a pond with bullfrogs leaping. I got sound but missed the jumpers

Guess I didn’t record the frogs!! Here’s Caleb at a stream which might be a repeat
Lovely Heather from Boston after our morning shot of tequila

We have no more included dinners, so it could be pasta/pizza (Caleb’s choice) I will endeavor to find a Spanish dish on the menu 🙂

Can I just say – Caleb was right; this little place around the corner was fab.

We have rooms next to each other, good night!!

Looks scarier than it was

I must learn restraint


July 8, day 13 of Camino 2.

Left Pontevedra 9:45 am. Arrived Caldas de Reis 5:30 pm. 14.2 miles. Thank goodness my phone records mileage cuz I’m not great at using the app on my watch. The “pause” option is my nemesis. I keep forgetting to resume!

What catches my eye – color and pastries

We were joined by our Boston friends- Heather and Diane plus two others from Santa Clara CA, mother Andrea and daughter Anna. Andrea is from Transylvania but lives in CA now. Daughter just graduated from UCLA (I believe that’s correct). At any rate, also great company.

So we now have 2 new members of the “tequila shot breakfast” club. They are believers that it does, in fact, relieve foot pain.

We also came cross plenty of local bovine species. Adults tethered, calves were not. Really quite passive.

Perfectly content with their life as witnessed by happy campers .

Scarab beetle appeared suddenly.

Caleb tried to get it to grab onto a stick, which it did.

And then, the flowers. Plus all the grape vines. We had these for miles.

It was quite the leisurely day. In addition to our lunch stop, we stopped 3 times for drinks. The last stop provided the best sangria I’ve ever had. So refreshing, I had two.

Once at our hotel, it was time for a much needed shower and a nap. For dinner, we didn’t venture far. Next door to hotel was a restaurant. Sadly, they were out of many things we tried to order. Eventually, I settled on grilled langostino, and Caleb had the surprise pork. There were quite a few amusing translations (surprise pork, feather Iberico) but ultimately we were happy with our meal.

We chatted at length with a couple from the Netherlands. We were equally eager to learn the customs of our home countries. They were surprised at our typical short vacation time and sick time allowances. The US is so limited with time off, compared to the European countries.

Nearly forgot about the 70 students from Basque Country. They were cheery, loud and full of fun. This is such a big part of the Camino. We will certainly see more groups of students in the next couple of days.

We reach Santiago in two days.

Good night.


July 9, day 14 of Camino2

Left Caldas de Reis at 8.39; arrived Padron 2:05 pm. 12 miles.

We hadn’t gone two miles when the rain started. While it wasn’t torrential, it was steady enough to warrant cover. As it happens, we endured drizzle most of the day, which only means that we definitely were looking forward to a long warm shower when we got to the hotel.

We have been so lucky with the weather so far, that today was really no problem at all. We enjoyed the sprinkling knowing that it should be nice tomorrow. One day of rain has not dampened our spirit.

The walk today was mostly through the woods; consequently, you may just see a study in the color green😎

And the woods

The weather limited conversation with other peregrinos. So, a quiet and contemplative day for us. Caleb continues to be attracted to random sticks and rock throwing, with occasional grape throwing – which I discourage. Anything to keep himself occupied!

I can tell we are getting close to the end as the two restaurants we stopped in today have plenty of touristy gift items. We have resisted so far.

One more day. Both Caleb and I commented on how the days just blur together, and that this trip has gone so very quickly.

It’s difficult not to compare to last year’s Camino which was much longer and more physically challenging.

Our feet are sore, we are a little sunburned, we are in serious need of a laundromat, but we are having yet another unforgettable adventure.

I tear up thinking how incredibly fortunate we are to be able to experience this glorious place, the people we have met, the laughs we have had, the pain we have endured – how can it not enrich our lives?

Am I a better person for it? I can say that I’m a different person for it. Simply because I appreciate even more what I have and understand even better that there is great beauty in simplicity. That, friends, is something for which I am truly grateful. Travel to places that are rich in nature, not rich in “things”. It is a rare gift.

Now to dinner. Once again, Caleb is better at selecting restaurants. Tonight was a wine bar with pinchos (tapas).

Seriously the best meal we’ve had. The tacos were divine, the nachos like none we’ve had before, the croquettes were creamy and flavorful. Lava cake with mango sorbet to finish. I had a lovely Tempranillo and Caleb had our favorite non alcoholic drink – Aquarius (lemon).

And because he’s still growing, we got a chicken burger to go for his late night snack. I am in awe at how much he can consume.

Tomorrow we end our Camino journey. But, fear not, we have a few days in Rome to finish out our trip. That will be a gastronomic and shopping adventure.

Good night .


July 10, day 15 of Camino2

Left Padrón at 9 am, arrived Santiago de Compostela at 5:05 pm. 16.1 miles

We had a slow start as it was drizzling again. However, the light rain is preferable to gagging heat. So no complaints.

Our hotel was the hotel jardin (garden) which made sense. Here’s one of the interior courtyards.

too pretty

Light rain did not deter us from our final destination on the Camino.

The murals. Such a big part of the journey. They’re incredible.

Then there’s the cats. So many cats

And dogs and horses. Can’t get enough of them

I digress. It’s our last day on the Camino and it seemed to last a lifetime.

We definitely did take our time, but we couldn’t quite get our mileage right so it seemed longer than it really was.

And we have arrived

Quick shower, get our certificates and off to the cathedral for the pilgrim mass.

Such a gorgeous cathedral.

We will sleep in tomorrow as we are bone tired.

We have an opportunity to see Santiago tomorrow, which we didn’t get last year, so that’s exciting.

Then it’s off to Rome for a few days to finish off the adventure. Stay tuned for pizza, pasta and of course, the Pope.

The apartment is close to the Vatican so museums are on the list. And maybe a little shopping.

Good night.


July 11, day 16 of Camino2

Our final day in Spain is a bit of a jumble. Our hotel was a massive place with many areas to linger if we chose, with restaurants, lounging areas and a lovely gift shop. Rooms were comfortable and more than adequate, but a contrast in size compared to the expansiveness of the property.

Sadly, it was rainy and dull so we managed a quick trip to the cathedral museum, a pleasant lunch indoors and a hint of shopping by me while Caleb went back to the hotel to lounge.

Photos do not do it justice. It was interesting and varied in its displays. I didn’t take many pictures as it felt somewhat invasive to do so. Museums are generally quiet, but there was a quiet reverence among the visitors that was so peaceful.

We spent a lot of time in the outer courtyard checking dates on the grave markers. Surprisingly, back in the 1800’s there were many who lived into their 80s and 90s. Perhaps that’s why they were buried in this place? I suspect it had more to do with wealth.

We were lucky to run into our friends Heather and Diane in the square for our final good bye. They were such fun- always cheerful and full of kind words for all.

Travel can be fun, but the airport part of it is often filled with boredom and delays that can crush the happiest persons soul. And so it was for us.

The readers digest version – our connection in Barcelona to Rome was delayed over two hours, with no explanation. Once boarded we sat on the plane for an hour, no explanation.

The executive town car driver we had arranged to drive us to the apartment had to leave because we were so late. The line for taxis was crazy long.

Call this lucky if you like, we were snatched out of line by a van driver who said he would take us (along with 6 others). Ok, we’re in.

At 2 a.m. he left us two blocks from the apartment and we were grateful. Blessed sleep.


July 12, day 17 of Camino2

You will not be surprised that we slept in. I finally surfaced around 9:30 and I managed to get Caleb out of his room at 11:30. It was lunch time after all.

But before all that, did much needed load a of laundry. There’s no dryer so we’ve got wet clothes scattered around my room on laundry lines. Very nice ambiance!

We wandered for a bit, found a nice spot for lunch, did a bit of grocery shopping, indulged in some gelato and back for a quick rest before venturing out again.

One big difference is the streets are littered with trash. Missing Spain already. What a difference!

We are supposed to be a 5 minute walk from St. Peter’s square and I wanted to see how long a walk it would be on Sunday. It really is just 5 minutes!


July 13, day 18 of Camino2.

A mere 6.3 miles today. What slackers we are 😉

Today was intended to include two “must see” places – the colosseum and Trevi fountain, and maybe a little shopping.

Two out of three isn’t bad when you’re walking in 96 degree heat, so we call it a win. Trevi fountain next time perhaps.

Gelato two days in a row. Today better than yesterday. Both pretty good.

We started out today by finding the nearest train station so we are ready for Monday departure. It’s very close so we will forego expensive taxi…Or so we hope.

More magnificent architecture

Where we’re going

The real thing

I can’t help but wonder who the guy in the yellow shirt is, but you get the idea. You’ll recognize my forehead no doubt.

Transportation options –

The drivers here are quite mad. They don’t stop for anything, especially pedestrians. The scooters are even more dangerous than the clown cars. Tourists are typically unable to handle these thingsIt’s nuts.

Some of the sights – the buildings are fantastic and plenty of statues. It’s a little overwhelming. Feels like a movie set.

Caleb and I started a tradition last year in Paris. One night he makes ramen for us for dinner. That was tonight, plus peaches and cherries for dessert. Life is grand.

Last photo for the day – little shop with second hand athletic wear.

Didn’t find anything to buy.

Good night.


July 14, day 19 of Camino2

Today was another blistering hot day. Our goal today was to see the Pope and explore the Vatican.

Getting into St Peters Square was like the TSA line at airport. Four lines with Hundreds of thousands of people trying to gain entrance. It was a zoo.

Can I just say that nuns are sneaky line crashers! Don’t get in their way and don’t try to tell them to wait their turn either.

We persevered.

It was all of 10 minutes but worth it.

Got a bit of him speaking

And that was our big day. Vatican is closed on Sunday. So tomorrow we head out early to see if we can get in for a bit before heading to the airport.

We splurged calories with pasta carbonara for me and spaghetti bolonaise for Caleb.

We ended the day watching football – England defeated by Spain 2-1 . Italian commentary didn’t help but we only needed to watch.

The Sistine chapel should cheer us up tomorrow.

Good night


July 15, day 20 of Camino2

We go home today. But we have a few hours so the plan is to go to Vatican City and at least get in the Sistine Chapel. Best laid plans. If we had two more hours…

The lines to get in any of the tourist spots are lengthy beyond compare.

The heat, the lines and the number of people in general has made this less than ideal.

Wall outside Vatican City is as close as we got 😦

Final thoughts – would I do another Camino walk? Without a doubt.

The Camino walk is not for everyone. But it is life changing for me.

Would I go to Rome again? Not in July. And, I’d book tours so as to avoid lines and actually get to see the places that Rome is so famous for, and worth seeing.

And so our story ends. One more amazing trip with a kind and considerate human. I’m a lucky Gigi.

Good night.


17 responses to “Gigicalebcamino2”

  1. A wonderful new adventure-we’re enjoying the blog and photos again this year. You are a trooper and when did Caleb get so big? Yikes!

    he has passed me and his parents in height and will very likely pass up Terry soon. He is a delight to be around.

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  2. Fake arrows along the route sound awful. Glad you didn’t get too far off the path. Hope tomorrow goes better

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    • Love every minute and word of your pilgrimage, Anna Marie!  Thank you for sharing! ❤️

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  3. What a wonderful adventure. Thank you so much for sharing this with us. Sharing all fabulous photos made it fell like we were traveling right slong with you without the sore feet!

    we can’t wait till camino3!

    judy and Mark

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