Off to Roncesvalles. Started walking at 8:10 am, arrived hotel at 5:15 pm.

15.7 miles. Good news – burned 1853 calories.

We had a lovely breakfast of yoghurt, croissant and a baguette, 2 kinds of jam and butter, coffee and fresh orange juice. Jean (hotel manager) drove us a couple miles to the starting point in Saint Jean de Pied de Port. Luggage left at hotel to be delivered to our next hotel. Fingers crossed!

Fabulous countryside. Lots of horses and sheep, a few cows. The animals all wear cow bells, presumably so their owners can find them easily. So, we heard lots of bells🔔🔔

Had a quick proscuitto and manchego baguette at a rest stop. One more stop at a food truck later for a coke.

This doesn’t count as a surprise, but walking uphill for 11 miles is painful. Walking downhill is treacherous, scary and dangerous – our last 4.7 miles. My thighs are killing me. Caleb said his feet are worse than thighs.

Elevation stats

We started at 200 ft., hiked up to 1450 ft, then down to just below 1000 ft. some was gradual. Most was fairly steep. Ouch.

We met two people from Huntsville, near Charlotte. Otherwise, lots of “bon jours”and “buen camino” along the way. Saw maybe 60 people. Trail is very well marked, just as we were told.

Dinner tonight was typical Spanish for pilgrims – starter choice of pasta or soup, main was chicken or fish and a piece of cake for dessert. Caleb scored additional dessert of tiramisu because the waitress thought he was sweet. That stemmed from him insisting the server be asked if he could try the wine (rather than me just pouring him a taste). She said since I was responsible for him, it was up to me! She was so impressed that he wanted to ask first 💕

Had he been on his own, it would not have been allowed.

Our luggage was here, our rooms are clean and modern. Hope to get to the tourist office before we leave tomorrow so we can get some advice re our route to Zubiri.

On a personal note – glad I speak Spanish, as that has made everything so much easier at hotels, restaurants. Feeling pretty confident right now. Hope it continues.

First day of walking complete. Only 34 days to go.