Left Sarria at 9:10. arrived at Portomarin 4:00 pm. 15.1 miles.
Today’s hike had some ups and downs, something we are quite accustomed to now. We just expect it and no longer even complain to one another. It is a part of our day.
As we thought, lots more pilgrims today. First, we were following a group of 30 teens from Mexico and in front of them, another 50 from Chile. We passed through both groups, as they splintered into their own small groups. They clearly were having a great time. Plenty of conversation and some dancing as well. It’s their first day on the Camino. They’re so excited. It’s lovely to see.
We, of course, secretly feel superior to anyone starting in Sarria since we’ve been walking over a month now. We are almost immune to the lovely countryside, sadly. We are so focused on finishing. I change the subject every time Caleb brings up taxis. He still remains hopeful.



The journey in general was an assault on our noses. So many cows…so many. You know, they just don’t smell great. Caleb said he had gotten used to it already. I was not so lucky. Happy to get to the hotel. Which, by the way, is amazing! Lovely and new with a rain shower head. And, thank you – a hair dryer.
Following three ladies, two dogs and a young boy. Then we heard
Totally unexpected bagpipe player which really cheered us up.
There are two entrances to Portomarin from the main road. One is the historic route and one is the alternate. At lunch we heard an older couple telling a young couple with a baby in a stroller that they should absolutely not take the historic route – it is rocky and steep and very dangerous.
We took the alternate route. While it was steep, it was paved and tough on the knees but not rocky and dangerous. A win for us. We’ve done our fair share of rocky and dangerous already. I’m trying to get through the next four days without injury!
Plenty of old buildings, clearly uninhabited, but interesting that they’re still standing.


An extremely long bridge into town (after the steep downhill approach) followed by two sets of steps. They’re not making this easy.



And we’re in. Once we see the church, our hotel is usually not too far away.

Ahh, luxury —


We’ve had lots of lovely rooms along the way, but this was so light, new and modern and it just felt comfy. Did I mention the hair dryer? Oh, the simple things that make me happy these days😎
I had a short walk through town after dinner. It was lively with all the students and just a tiny bit loud.
Stocked back up on lotion and toothpaste, which I am just about out of now. Still have a week before Raleigh. My legs and arms could be mistaken for shoe leather at this point, so lotion was a necessity. And you can’t go without toothpaste, can you?
Four more days of walking🥾🥾